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Take a sneak peek inside "The Bear Facts"!

PART I - How to Make a Teddy Bear
When
you make your very own, first bear, it can be a bit overwhelming.
However, if
you take it step-by-step and read through the chapters you will find it
is not
all that hard. And once you have made your first bear, it becomes more
fun as
you become more confident with your skills. So be patient with yourself.
Choosing Your Type of Teddy Bear
1.1 Safe
Bears for Small Children
For
collecting or decorating the country-style home, nothing can beat an
old-fashioned jointed teddy bear.
In this
ebook, we will look at crafting a jointed bear in step-by-step detail. For best authenticity, you
may want to use
real mohair fur fabric. The
downside is
that real mohair costs over $100 a yard (meter) (USD).
On
the other hand, you will only need about a third of a yard to make a
16-inch
(40 cm.) bear. (Some
suppliers do not
sell pieces smaller than a half yard, while others sell specially cut
quarter
yards. The bear we
are going to make
takes more than a quarter yard.)
If
this is your first bear, and you don't want to risk a lot of money,
there are
some nice fake fur materials available that have the vintage look and
cost much
less. Only you will
really know the
difference.
1.3. Non-Jointed
Bears
Most
commercial teddy bears are not jointed and are still cute and lovable. These might seem to be
quite a bit simpler to
make since you don't have to fiddle with the joints.
Long ago, creative parents would use a button
and a button-hole to create a makeshift joint for their homespun toys. Of course, today we
wouldn't consider this
safe for tots, but button joints are charming for decorative country
bears.
Legs
and arms can have a bit of move-ability if they have a seam where they
join the
body. In this way a
non-jointed bear can
either sit on a shelf or lie on a bed.
In
reality, the joints (especially the safety kind) are not that hard to
use, and
they make a straight forward way of attaching the limbs to the body. This makes jointed bears
really just about as
easy to make as non-jointed (and maybe easier, in some cases!)
1.4. Other
Teddy Bear Styles and Ideas
One
of the simplest ways to craft a teddy bear is to make a simple pillow
style
toy. The facial
features and paw pads
are appliqued onto the body material, which is simply sewn around and
stuffed. These make
nice bedtime companions.
Or maybe you're into recycling and living green. A great idea that many environmentally aware craftspeople are doing now is to reclaim fabric from thrift shop clothing. For instance, a velour skirt or shirt can provide enough material for a small cuddly teddy bear. You may find an old fur coat that you could cut apart and use for material.

This bear was crafted from
fabric
reclaimed from
the lining of a torn leather coat - total
cost, 25
cents!
A
particular style of stuffed toy that is popular in some circles is the
"Waldorf" style doll or bear. These toys are designed to supplement a
special type of early childhood education that emphasizes peacefulness,
connection with nature, and creativity. For this type of teddy bear,
you would want to use natural material, such as wool felt or cotton
velour. The faces of Waldorf toys are very simple so that the child can
imagine different emotions and expressions as they play.
But enough introduction! On to
the teddy bears!
.... (continued)
PART II - Step-By-Step
Sewing Instructions for Sewing a Jointed Bear
In the following example we
will make Mugsy, a jointed teddy bear made from brown distressed fur.
Klondike
is made from the same pattern as Mugsy, except he has a two part
muzzle. You can't tell it from his design, but the two part
muzzle can be used to make a bear in two colors.
Mugsy
and Klondike require 1/2 yard of fur fabric each and a small piece of
paw pad material. Mugsy's finished height is about 15 inches
(38
cm.) and Klondike is a tiny bit taller. The height of a bear
can
vary a bit depending on how you attach the joints and other details
Begin
by printing off the pattern you are going to use.
If you print it from your computer onto
cardstock, you will already have a stiff template to trace around. If you can't use
cardstock, you can always
print the pattern onto regular paper, and then make cardboard pattern
pieces
for templates. If
you make separate
cardboard templates, make sure you transfer all the markings, such as
dots for
joint placement and the arrow indicating appropriate grain line.
TIP:
Make a
separate pattern piece for all parts.
Then you can lay them all on the fabric for experimenting
with the most
efficient lay-out.

Experiment
with placement of the
pattern pieces so you have the least amount of waste
- 2 bodies (1 reversed)
- 2 side heads (1 reversed)
- 1 head gusset
- 2 outer arms (1 reversed)
- 2 inner arms (1 reversed)
- 4 legs (2 reversed)
- 4 ears
- 2 foot pads
For
- 2 bodies (1 reversed)
- 2 side heads of color A (1
reversed)
- 1 head gusset of color B
- 2 muzzles of color B (1
reversed)
- 2 outer arms (1 reversed)
- 2 inner arms (1 reversed)
- 4 legs (2 reversed)
- 4 ears
- 2 foot pads
Fray
check all pieces on the backing very lightly before you cut by running
a small amount along each line.
Begin constructing the bear by pinning together the two sides of the head along the chin line. (Hint: Turn your pins so that the heads are toward the outside of the pattern pieces, and you will be less likely to scratch yourself on the points.)

...(continued)
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